How to Hem Pants by Hand (Guide)

Hemming pants by hand is a valuable skill that can come in handy in various situations. Whether you don’t have access to a sewing machine or simply prefer a more seamless finish, knowing how to hem pants by hand allows you to achieve a professional look with minimal tools. In this article, we will guide you through the step-by-step process of hand hemming pants, ensuring a stitch-less and well-tailored result.

Before we dive into the details, let’s clarify what hand hemming entails. Hand hemming pants involves creating a new hemline and securing it by hand stitching. This method provides a clean and inconspicuous finish on the outside of the pant leg.

Key Takeaways:

• Hand hemming pants is a useful skill for achieving a seamless finish.
• Unpick the existing hem to prepare the pants for the new hemline.
• Work out the desired length for the pants before hemming.
• Ensure the pant legs are taken up evenly all the way around for an even hem.
• Create a new hem by keeping 2-2 1/2″ (5-6cm) of fabric and cut off excess fabric.

Step 1: Unpick the Existing Hem

Before you can start hemming your pants by hand, the first step is to remove the existing hem. This may seem like a tedious task, but it is crucial for achieving a clean and professional finish.

Use a quick un-pick tool to carefully unpick the stitches of the existing hem from the pants. Take your time and ensure that you remove all the stitches without damaging the fabric.

By unpicking the existing hem, you create a fresh canvas to work with and ensure that the new hem will be seamless and well-aligned with the rest of the pant leg.

Step 2: Work Out the New Length For the Pants

Before hemming the pants, it’s important to determine the new length. This step ensures that the pants are the perfect length when you have them on. Here’s how you can work out the new length:

1. Pin the Pants at the Desired Hemline

Start by pinning the pants at the exact spot where you want the new hemline to be. Take into consideration the type of shoes you will wear with the pants to ensure the ideal length. This will help you visualize and confirm the correct hemline position.

2. Consider the Shoes You Will Wear

Think about the shoes you plan to pair with the pants. The length of the pants should be appropriate for the footwear. For example, shorter pants may be more suitable if you’re wearing flats or sneakers, while longer pants might be better for heels or boots.

3. Make Adjustments as Needed

Once you’ve pinned the pants at the desired hemline and considered the shoe height, take a moment to assess the overall appearance. Make any necessary adjustments to achieve the perfect length that flatters your figure and suits your style.

By accurately determining the new length for your pants, you’ll ensure a well-fitted and polished look.

Step 3: Ensure the Pant Legs are Taken up Evenly all the Way Around

Now that you have determined the new length for your pants, it’s important to ensure that the hem is even all the way around. This will give your pants a polished and professional look. Here’s how you can measure and adjust the hem length:

1. Start by measuring the distance from the top of the pant leg to the new fold created by the pinned hemline. Use a measuring tape or ruler to get an accurate measurement.
2. Once you have the measurement, double-check that it is consistent all the way around the pant leg. This will ensure that the hem is even and not lopsided.
3. Use pins to hold the hem in place at the desired length. Make sure the pins are evenly spaced to maintain a consistent hemline.

By taking these steps to measure and adjust the hem length, you can be confident that your pants will have an even and aesthetically pleasing hemline.

If you’re unsure about the measurements, don’t hesitate to seek assistance from a friend or family member. Remember, precision is key to achieving a flawless hem. Take your time and make any necessary adjustments before moving on to the next step.

Step 4: Keep 2-2 1/2″ (5-6cm) to Create the New Hem and Cut Off Excess Fabric

Now that you have determined the new length for your pants, it’s time to measure and mark the fabric needed for the new hem allowance. To create a clean and professional finish, it is recommended to keep about 2-2 1/2″ (5-6cm) of fabric.

Using a ruler or tape measure, carefully measure and mark the desired hem allowance on the pant leg. Make sure to measure consistently all the way around, ensuring an even hem length.

Once you have marked the new hem allowance, it’s time to cut off the excess fabric. Take a pair of sharp fabric scissors and carefully trim away the fabric above the marked line. Be cautious not to cut into the marked line or make any jagged edges.

By cutting off the excess fabric, you are now left with the perfect amount of fabric required for the new hem. This will ensure a clean and precise finish when you stitch the hem in the next steps.

Step 5: Making Note of Your Hem Allowance, Removing Pins, and Turning Pants Inside Out

Now that you have determined the hem allowance for your pants, it’s time to make note of it. This measurement will ensure that your hem is consistent and even all the way around the pant leg. Remember, a well-aligned hem creates a polished and professional look.

Once you have taken note of your hem allowance, it’s time to remove the pins that were holding the pant leg in place. Carefully take out each pin, making sure not to pull or snag the fabric. Removing the pins will allow you to work freely and easily as you move forward with the hemming process.

Note: If you are working with delicate or slippery fabrics, it may be helpful to use fabric clips instead of pins.

With the pins removed, it’s time to turn the pants inside out. This step is important because it will allow you to work on the inside of the pant leg where the hem will be created. Carefully flip the pants, ensuring that the fabric is fully turned and the seams are neatly aligned.

Note: If your pants have lining or pockets, make sure to fold them out of the way before turning the pants inside out. This will ensure that the hem is clean and uninterrupted.

By making note of your hem allowance, removing pins, and turning the pants inside out, you are now ready to proceed with the next steps of hemming your pants by hand.

Step 6: Turn Hem Up by 2″ and Iron in Place

Now that the pants are inside out, it’s time to turn up the hem. Using the hem allowance measurement you determined earlier, fold the bottom of the pant leg up by approximately 2 inches. This will create a clean and polished finish.

Once the hem is folded, it’s important to iron it in place. This will ensure that the hem stays flat and neat throughout the wearing and washing of the pants. Use an iron set to the appropriate heat setting for the fabric, and press the folded hem with even pressure. Make sure to run the iron along the entire length of the hem, smoothing out any wrinkles or creases.

Ironing the hem is a crucial step in achieving a professional-looking finish. It helps to create crisp edges and provides a foundation for the following stitching process. Take your time and ensure that the entire hem is thoroughly pressed.

By turning the hem up and ironing it in place, you’re one step closer to completing your perfectly hemmed pants. The folded hem creates a clean and polished look, setting the stage for the final steps of hand stitching the hem into place. Let’s move on to the next step, where we’ll hold the hem in place with a few pins.

Step 7: Hold the Hem in Place with a Few Pins

Now that you have folded the hem in place, it’s time to ensure that it stays put while you hand stitch it. This will make the stitching process easier and more accurate.

To hold the hem in place, use a few sharp dressmaker pins. Start by inserting a pin near the top of the folded hem, making sure it goes through all layers of fabric. Then, insert additional pins at regular intervals along the hemline, spacing them out evenly.

Make sure the pins are secure but not too tight, as you don’t want to distort the fabric. Be careful not to prick yourself while pinning. Keep in mind that the pins will be removed as you stitch, so it’s okay if they stick out a bit.

By pinning the hem, you ensure that it remains in place as you work on stitching it. This step will help you achieve neat and even stitches, creating a beautifully finished hem.

Pro Tip: If you’re working with a delicate or slippery fabric, you may find it helpful to use lightweight or silk pins. These types of pins have finer points, making them easier to insert without damaging the fabric.

Step 8: Grab Your Prepared Needle with a Single Thread and Tie a Knot in the End

Now that you’re ready to start stitching the hem, it’s time to prepare your needle and thread. Choose a single layer of thread that matches the color of the pants. This will ensure a seamless and inconspicuous finish.

To begin, tie a knot at the end of the thread. This will prevent the thread from slipping through the fabric as you sew. You can secure the knot to one of the inside leg seams using a small backstitch, or simply anchor it securely between the layers of fabric.

Having the knot in place at the start of your stitching will give you a stable foundation to work with. It’s important to make sure the thread is securely attached so that it doesn’t come loose while hemming the pants.

Step 9: Get Stitching!

Now that you have prepared the pants and secured the hem, it’s time to start stitching by hand. Follow these steps to achieve a professional finish:

1. Insert the needle into the folded hem, starting a small distance from the top.
2. Take a few threads from the third layer of fabric and pull the thread through, creating your first stitch.
3. Continue stitching around the hem, making sure to only pick up the third layer of fabric with each stitch.

By hand stitching the hem, you can ensure a seamless and clean finish. Take your time and pay attention to detail as you work your way around the pant leg.

Expert Tip:

For added reinforcement, you can backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching. This will help secure the hem and prevent it from coming undone.

Conclusion

Mastering the art of hand hemming is a valuable skill that allows you to achieve a professional finish without the need for a sewing machine. By following these step-by-step instructions, you can create seamless and well-fitted pants tailored to your desired length.

Starting with unpicking the existing hem, determining the new length, ensuring even hem length, creating the new hem, and making note of the hem allowance, you have all the tools to hand hem your pants with precision. Remember to turn the pants inside out, fold and iron the hem in place, and secure it with pins before you start stitching.

Once you have prepared your needle with a single thread and tied a knot at the end, you can begin stitching the hem. Take care to pick up only the third layer of fabric to maintain a seamless finish. With patience and practice, you will be able to achieve professional-looking results every time.

So why wait? Get started on mastering the art of hand hemming today and enjoy the satisfaction of transforming your pants into perfectly tailored garments.